BUNDLE – Kingston Jacket & Add On Collection

Options

• Five sleeve options: long, half angel, trumpet, full bell and three-quarter bell sleeves
• Optional side seam pockets
• Optional front pockets with flaps
• Optional knit sleeves and hood
• Optional welt pockets
• Optional internal pocket
• Optional back ruffle

Features

• Suitable for advanced beginner level
• Button or snap fastenings
• Packed with pro tips and expert advice
• Includes full size, print-at-home pattern pieces
• Includes step-by-step tutorial with photos
• Instant-download digital sewing pattern

Suitable for medium to heavy-weight woven fabric. Knit sleeves, hood and waistband require knit or stretch fabric.

You will also need:

• Thread to match
• Buttons or snap fastenings
• Optional cord for hood

A serger or overlocker is optional but not required.

Fabric - This jacket is designed for denim. However, any medium weight woven fabric will work, and many heavier weight woven fabrics will too. Great options are denim, stretch denim, bull denim, low-pile corduroy, cotton canvas, twill, or even upcycling old jeans. There are many weights of denim you can get. These are usually referred to in fabric listings in fabric listings in ounces. So, for example a "14 oz. denim" means a yard of fabric will weigh 14 ounces. The lower the number, the thinner and more pliable the fabric will be. The higher the number, the heavier and thicker it will be. This pattern is suitable for 5 oz. to 14 oz. denims. Do not use above a 14 oz. weight fabric or you will find it does not bend sufficiently to manipulate the seams, or to be comfortable in the finished garment. Fabric choice will make all the difference in how easy and how quick a sew this will be. 

• The lighter weight the fabric, the easier you will find it to manipulate and sew.
• The heavier the fabric, the more labor intensive the sew will be. Heavier fabric is generally thicker and harder to manipulate so it will take longer to press and pin. You also need to sew slower in order to not break your needles.
• For an advanced beginner or intermediate sewer, I would recommend any medium weight woven or denim.
• I would only recommend heavier weight fabrics and denims (ex. a traditional jean-weight denim such as 12-14 oz.) for more advanced sewers.
• Example - I made a long sleeve women's version for myself in a 14 oz. denim. It took me twice as long as a 2-3 years version I made for my daughter in a light weight cotton denim. My women's version was beautiful, I adore it, and it was worth every moment, but it was a labor of love for sure! 

Denim fabric is notorious for shrinking. Darker colors will also stain your fingers and sewing machines as the dye warms up while being handled. Please pre-wash your fabric first (on its own) and dry before using. It can also mark easily in the wash so do not leave it sitting in your washing machine or dryer after washing, hang or fold as soon as you are able. If you are doing the bell sleeves, the bell part of those need to be in a light to medium weight woven or knit fabric as they are gathered at the top of the bell. A thicker fabric will not gather and will be hard to work with. Examples are cotton, polyester, rayon, chiffon, lace, etc. The other sleeve options (long, trumpet, and half angel) can be sewn in either a contrasting fabric or the same as your main fabric. The long sleeve needs a medium weight woven just like the rest of the jacket. The trumpet and half angel sleeves can be in the same as your jacket or a lighter weight fabric such as cotton, lace, etc.

Browse suitable fabrics here:

You will also need:

• Fastenings:
  • Either 5/8 inch wide buttons or snaps.
  • If using snaps, go for metal or heavy-duty snaps.
  • You will need 6 for all Women's sizes.
  • Add 2 additional buttons/snaps if doing the long sleeve version.
  • Add 2 additional buttons/snaps if doing the optional waistband tabs.
  • Add 2 additional buttons/snaps if doing the Front Pockets.
• Optional single fold 1/2 inch wide bias tape - If you are using a regular sewing machine, the bell sleeve, trumpet sleeve, and underarm seam can all be finished with bias tape. 3 yards for all Women's sizes will be more than sufficient. You will not need this if you are using a serger. You can use store-bought tape or see the cutting section for notes on making your own.
• Optional lining fabric for Collar lining and for Side Seam Pockets. The Side Seam Pockets are completely optional and require a light weight woven (e.g. cotton). The Collar lining can be cut either from the same as your main fabric or from a lighter weight lining fabric such as cotton. A 1/4 yard length will be more than sufficient for both Pockets and Collar.
• Optional Light Weight Interfacing - If you are going to embroider on the Collar Lining in Step 7, you may also wish to use interfacing on the back of your Collar Lining to give it strength. Prepare this during the Preparation Step.
• Thread to match. You may want to use specialty top stitching thread. This is usually a heavier weight and you may need more than you are used to as there is generally less on a spool. You will need 2-3 Spools.

Tools

• Sewing machine
• Scissors
• Pins or clips
• Tape measure or ruler
• Buttonhole Presser foot
• A hammer or mallet may also be helpful for attaching your buttons.
• If you are using heavy or denim fabric, you will also need a specialty needle (either a 'denim' needle or a heavy-duty needle such as the sizing '70/10 - 110/18'). Make sure you have several available. There is a lot of top stitching in this pattern and and if you are using denim or thicker fabric, it will blunt and be placed under pressure over the course of the sew. Sewing slowly over bulky sections will help reduce this, however, switching to a fresh needle part way through the sew can help make the sewing easier.
• If you are using heavy or denim fabric, you may also find using a 'clapper' helps. A tailor's clapper is a wooden tool which absorbs moisture from seams after pressing. It helps give a crisp edge and flattens seams too. When working with heavy fabrics such as traditional denim, this can help avoid broken needles and make sewing easier and more accurate.

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Fabric - This jacket is designed for denim. However, any medium weight woven fabric will work, and many heavier weight woven fabrics will too. Great options are denim, stretch denim, bull denim, low-pile corduroy, cotton canvas, twill, or even upcycling old jeans. There are many weights of denim you can get. These are usually referred to in fabric listings in fabric listings in ounces. So, for example a "14 oz. denim" means a yard of fabric will weigh 14 ounces. The lower the number, the thinner and more pliable the fabric will be. The higher the number, the heavier and thicker it will be. This pattern is suitable for 5 oz. to 14 oz. denims. Do not use above a 14 oz. weight fabric or you will find it does not bend sufficiently to manipulate the seams, or to be comfortable in the finished garment. Fabric choice will make all the difference in how easy and how quick a sew this will be. 

• The lighter weight the fabric, the easier you will find it to manipulate and sew.
• The heavier the fabric, the more labor intensive the sew will be. Heavier fabric is generally thicker and harder to manipulate so it will take longer to press and pin. You also need to sew slower in order to not break your needles.
• For an advanced beginner or intermediate sewer, I would recommend any medium weight woven or denim.
• I would only recommend heavier weight fabrics and denims (ex. a traditional jean-weight denim such as 12-14 oz.) for more advanced sewers.
• Example - I made a long sleeve women's version for myself in a 14 oz. denim. It took me twice as long as a 2-3 years version I made for my daughter in a light weight cotton denim. My women's version was beautiful, I adore it, and it was worth every moment, but it was a labor of love for sure! 

Denim fabric is notorious for shrinking. Darker colors will also stain your fingers and sewing machines as the dye warms up while being handled. Please pre-wash your fabric first (on its own) and dry before using. It can also mark easily in the wash so do not leave it sitting in your washing machine or dryer after washing, hang or fold as soon as you are able. If you are doing the bell sleeves, the bell part of those need to be in a light to medium weight woven or knit fabric as they are gathered at the top of the bell. A thicker fabric will not gather and will be hard to work with. Examples are cotton, polyester, rayon, chiffon, lace, etc. The other sleeve options (long, trumpet, and half angel) can be sewn in either a contrasting fabric or the same as your main fabric. The long sleeve needs a medium weight woven just like the rest of the jacket. The trumpet and half angel sleeves can be in the same as your jacket or a lighter weight fabric such as cotton, lace, etc.

You will need approximately 1/4 yard of knit fabric for the Doll size in addition to the fabric needed for the Kingston. Browse suitable fabrics here:

You will also need:

• Fastenings:
  • Either 5/8 inch wide buttons or snaps.
  • If using snaps, go for metal or heavy-duty snaps.
  • You will need 5 for Dolls size, 5 for all Children's sizes, and 6 for all Women's sizes.
  • Add 2 additional buttons/snaps if doing the long sleeve version.
  • Add 2 additional buttons/snaps if doing the optional waistband tabs.
  • Add 2 additional buttons/snaps if doing the Front Pockets.
• Optional single fold 1/2 inch wide bias tape - If you are using a regular sewing machine, the bell sleeve, trumpet sleeve, and underarm seam can all be finished with bias tape. You will need 1 yard for Doll size, 2 yards for Children's sizes, and 3 yards for all Women's sizes will be more than sufficient. You will not need this if you are using a serger. You can use store-bought tape or see the cutting section for notes on making your own.
• Optional lining fabric for Collar lining and for Side Seam Pockets. The Side Seam Pockets are completely optional and require a light weight woven (e.g. cotton). The Collar lining can be cut either from the same as your main fabric or from a lighter weight lining fabric such as cotton. A 1/4 yard length will be more than sufficient for both Pockets and Collar for all sizes.
• Optional Light Weight Interfacing - If you are going to embroider on the Collar Lining in Step 7, you may also wish to use interfacing on the back of your Collar Lining to give it strength. Prepare this during the Preparation Step.
• For Optional Hood:
  • 1-2 yards of shoe string, cording, or other tie option for all sizes. Not recommended for 0-24 month sizes due to safety restrictions.
  • Grommets can be used in place of buttonholes if desired.
• Thread to match. You may want to use specialty top stitching thread. This is usually a heavier weight and you may need more than you are used to as there is generally less on a spool. You will need 1 Spool for Doll size, 1-2 Spools for Children's sizes, and 2-3 Spools for Women's sizes.

Tools

• Sewing machine
• Scissors
• Pins or clips
• Tape measure or ruler
• Buttonhole Presser foot
• A hammer or mallet may also be helpful for attaching your buttons.
• If you are using heavy or denim fabric, you will also need a specialty needle (either a 'denim' needle or a heavy-duty needle such as the sizing '70/10 - 110/18'). Make sure you have several available. There is a lot of top stitching in this pattern and and if you are using denim or thicker fabric, it will blunt and be placed under pressure over the course of the sew. Sewing slowly over bulky sections will help reduce this, however, switching to a fresh needle part way through the sew can help make the sewing easier.
• If you are using heavy or denim fabric, you may also find using a 'clapper' helps. A tailor's clapper is a wooden tool which absorbs moisture from seams after pressing. It helps give a crisp edge and flattens seams too. When working with heavy fabrics such as traditional denim, this can help avoid broken needles and make sewing easier and more accurate.

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FAQs

How do PDF/ digital patterns work? Simply download, print, and sew. You’ll need a free Adobe Acrobat reader program and any home printer (or a nearby copy shop for A0 printing). Once you’ve printed the pieces, tape or glue them together. You’ll find an easy-to-follow how-to guide inside the pattern instructions, plus support in our Facebook group.

The trim-free pattern comes in A4 or US letter printable sizes and includes full pattern pieces and a detailed tutorial to guide you every step of the way. An A0 format (pattern pieces only) is also included should you wish to have your pattern printed professionally. PDF Layers allow you to select and print only the size/s you want/ need.

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What if I need help while sewing? Join our Facebook group and ask any and all the questions you have! We have a team of admins who know our patterns inside-out and are here to help at any point throughout your RP sewing experience. This wonderful community is friendly, knowledgeable, and always willing to help! You can share photos of your RP sews, enter giveaways, get sales information, and new-release updates.